Chances are if you are a new all-grain brewer your grain mill is the one provided at the local home brew shop where you get your grains. Today we do a deep dive on why you need to crush your grains, the types of grain mills out there, and some hacks you can add to yours.
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Links:
Corona Mill Example: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/weston-36-3601-w-corn-and-grain-grinder/943363601W.html
Corona Mill Mods: https://www.instructables.com/id/Corona-Mill-Mods-for-All-Grain-Brewing/
Great example of a starter Two Roller Mill: https://www.homebrewing.org/Crop-Duster-Grain-Mill_p_9880.html?Affid=682
Here is a good example of a Two Roller Mill: https://www.homebrewing.org/Cereal-Killer-Grain-Mill_p_2310.html?AffId=682
Here is a higher quality Two Roller mill: https://www.homebrewing.org/Barley-Crusher-Grain-Mill-15LB-Hopper_p_1607.html?Affid=682
Here is an example of a Three Roller Mill: https://www.morebeer.com/products/malt-muncher-3-roller-grain-mill.html
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Show Transcript (AI Created It Will Have Errors)
Colter Wilson: On today’s episode, we’re going to have a conversation about one of the fundamental pieces of equipment that every all grain brewer needs to make a batch of beer. That piece of equipment is their meal. A lot of times when you start out as an all-grain brewer, you need a mill to crush grain while you’re at the shop.
But today, if you’re looking to choose one or build one yourself, we’re going to talk about it on home brewery, DIY.
Welcome back to homebrewing DIY. The podcast that takes on the duty yourself aspect of homebrewing gadgets, contraptions and parts. This podcast covers it all. On today’s show, we’re going to discuss grain mills, either if you’re building one yourself or picking one out for your home brewery. There’s a lot of reasons why you should pick what you want and we’ll dive into why you should grain mill and why it even exists in the first place.
The first. I’d like to thank all of our patrons over a Patrion. It’s your support that keeps the show coming to you week after week. I’d like to thank our newest patrons, Peter C. Wiley and Evan Wilder. They’re our newest patrons this week supporting the show, and it’s all I can say is thank you very, very much for your support.
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Jim Bob 88 88 via Apple podcasts, and he’s all the way from great Britain and he says, have learned a lot about brewing and from listening to this podcast, and he gave us a five star review. So always appreciate all of the great feedback that we get on the show. Another way to support the show is to give@coffee.com and that’s Kao dash dot com forward slash homebrewing DIY.
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So Hey Ren style, thank you so much for your support. Even a onetime contribution helps. One of the goals that I have right now is that I am actually saving up all of the patron money and all of the coffee money to actually purchase a new mixer and board for my podcast set up. Um, it’s a pretty expensive endeavor and all of these contributions help get us there sooner.
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So once again, that’s home brewing, diy.beer and click on our sponsor banners. Remember this Thursday the 28th of May, 2020 we are going to be doing our may homebrewers round table this month. We are having our guest Rob desal. He was actually our guest on episode 26 for a natural history of beer. He’s actually the co author of the book, a natural history of beer.
He’s also a PhD professor from. Yell university, and he is also a curator at the American museum of natural history in New York city. Rob is going to take a some time to come and do a round table with any of our listeners or anyone who would like to join, and the idea is that he will give a small presentation at the beginning.
Think. 10 or 15 minutes. And then after that we’re going to open up the rest of the hour for Q and. A. And really focus in on some really great subjects in beer history. And if you ever read that book, a natural history in beer, it’s a great read and I highly recommend it. But if you’d like to attend the event that is head over to our website.
Homebrewing, diy.beer and on the menu at the top, just hit the events tab and it’ll take you right to the round table event there. You can sign up. I’ll get you a meeting invite so that you can attend and we’ll see you on Thursday at 7:30 PM Eastern time. Now for a little bit of feedback. I got an Instagram message from Daniel Jardeen.
He sent me this message, Hey, mind sharing me the Fox forest five recipe that we talked about last week. I was hanging for a brewing session and it looks exactly like something I’d like to brew and. I sent over the recipe for that, and if you follow me on Instagram, it was a beer that I posted a photo of.
It was a new England style IPA that I had just recently made, and. I gave him some feedback on that saying, Hey, it needs another hop. It was a hundred percent mosaic hazy IPA, and I felt like it needed a little more depth on the hop character, so I gave him some ideas, like add a little bit of galaxy, add some citrus, maybe some Amarillo, because.
I just personally felt after tasting that beer, that it looked right. It felt right. It just didn’t. It was lacking a little something, and then he sent me an in return message. He said, really appreciate this. I love your podcast and hooked up with apartment brewing after your show you did together in February.
He’s been very helpful. At sharing a great base for a new England IPA recipe. Unfortunately, it got oxidized on the dry hop and I had to dump 10 gallons. I live in the East coast and Canada and we really. Yeah. Are in a dead zone for craft beer innovation. I usually make quarterly runs to Boston for Trillium and Portland or Maine for Portland, Maine for Bissell brothers and Maine beer company and Allagash to get my quality beer fix.
But the border being closed is really killed my supply. So. We, we went back and forth on some tweaks to his recipe, but I have to say, Hey Daniel, thank you so much for reaching out. And I love the fact that some of the guests on this show have now connected with some of the listeners to really give great advice.
And George puppy. Paula from apartment brewing. He’s a great guy, and if you send him a message and ask him anything about a new England IPA, he does have a really great base recipe. Um, I might actually reach out to him and see if we can get it and post it on the website. And if you have any feedback, feel free to reach out to us at home brewing DIY beer.
That’s podcast at home brewing. DIY it up here, or head over to the website, homebrewing DIY dot ear and click on the contact tab and fill that out. It also send me an email. You can also reach out to me if you want to message me on any of my social media that were on Twitter, Instagram, or Facebook, and just look for all one word, homebrewing, DIY.
Well, that’s it for this week’s announcements. And so now it’s time to dive into this week’s episode. We’re going to be doing a deep dive into grain mills.
The grain mill is something that I think that a lot of people, when they first get into all grain brewing, they don’t. This is a piece of equipment that most home brewers don’t own right out of the gate. There are certain pieces of equipment you own right up front, like you have to have a fermentation vessel.
You have to have a kettle. These are essential. In any brewing, whether its going to be an extract batch or it’s going to be an all green batch. But once you move into all grain, there’s a piece of equipment you have to have, but you may borrow it. So let’s, let’s talk about that at the beginning. So in order to actually brew in all grain batch, you actually have to crush your grain.
That is part of the process. So when you buy molted barley, it comes as an entire kernel or it’s an entire piece of that, that grain, that malted barley, and when you purchase it from, whether you buy it in a 55 pound bag or you buy enough for your five gallon batch, when you go down to your home brew store, it usually comes as whole kernels.
And when you were then going to. Get ready for your brew day, you have to crush that grain. And what crushing grain does is it does a couple of things. When you first crush your grain, it’s actually releasing, it’s crushing, open the husk and creating three things. It actually has a husk. There’s a crushed Colonel in there.
And exposing the sugars. And there’s also just a little bit of flour in there that get as, as it goes through the grain, it’ll pulverize and turn a bit of that into flour. And the, the act of crushing, it allows you to have the proper efficiency during your mash to actually create the sugars. So when you crush the grain.
You’re actually allowing, it’s the first step in getting the grain ready to release all of it sugar into creating sweet wort as part of your mash. Now, why does the crush matter? Well, it’s kind of a big deal. It, you know, you have to get those starches and sugars and the enzymes. Present and they have to be exposed to the liquid and that temperature during that mash so that those enzymes activate, and then it converts those starches into sugars that then become alcohol during fermentation.
That is really the reason why you have to crush grain, and that is just the first step in that process. The next part is. When you look at crushes, there are different kinds of ways to crush. You can, like for example, if you have a three vessel system and you’re doing sparging, it’s really important for you to have a crushed grain, but just broken enough of those so that there’s enough grain husks in there to support your grain bed.
So that you don’t end up with too fine of a crush and get something like a stuck sparge. But then if you are a Bruin, a bag. Brewer such as me, you want to have a finer crush, and that’s really important because otherwise you’re not going to get the proper efficiency in the brew in a bag method because you’re not using hot water to rent your grains.
But there’s also because the bag ends up becoming a filter inside of your kettle, you don’t necessarily need. To have the husks support the grain bed. And so therefore you don’t risk that stuck sparge and so that’s the way you’re going to gain more efficiency with a all grain batch versus a sparge batch.
So one of those kinds of Bruna bag tricks out there is that if you have a finer crush, you’re actually going to increase your efficiency. Whereas if you have that fine of a crush in a three vessel system, and you’re doing either a batch sparge or even a two vessel system where you’re using sparge water, then having a little bit bigger of a crush is going to set you up so that you don’t have problems such as stucks barges.
So one of the things that when a homebrewer first starts out and their first grain mill that they generally use is the one at their local Homebrew shop. For me, that was exactly the case. The first time I ever brewed even a brew in a bag batch, I went down to my local Homebrew shop, I, and this was back in 2014 I think was the time I brewed my first all-grain.
Bruin, a bank batch, and I went down to my local Homebrew shop and I, if I actually still remember this recipe randomly, and that recipe was a hundred percent two row malt. It was an American two row malt, I believe it was even rawr. I used some saws, hops, and I did a 60 minute boil. I did a. 15 minute boil, and then I did a 10 minute edition and then I added a dry packet of Cole sheets.
That was the recipe. To be honest, the beer was okay and, but when I went over to the. Grain mill. I just ran it right through the home brew shops, grain mill, and went on my Merry way and went and brewed a batch of beer. So because this batch of beer was a brew, a bad batch, and I used the standard settings within the grain mill at my local Homebrew shop, I ended up with a pretty low efficiency.
Um, because they’re grain mill, and if you go to a local Homebrew shop, most of them have their grain mill setup. For a bit of a larger crush for a three vessel system or a batch sparge type brewer. So one thing you can do is always ask an employee, Hey, is this a, I’m brewing in a bag? Is this set up correctly?
And the other way to kind of get around that is you can always double crush, so you can run it through the mill, then put it into the bucket below the mill, and then pour it back into the top and crush it again. Or. Is is is my local Homebrew shop. He actually does all the crushing for you at the shop that you pick out your grains, hand them to him, and he’ll actually do the crush and you just say, Hey, I have a brew in a bag and he’ll do a double crush for you.
But for me, being a brew and a bag typer. I felt that that was something I needed to improve on quickly. And the first thing I did is went out and purchased a mill, and I looked at a few different mills and I went out and purchased a two roller mill. Uh, it was actually not a super expensive one. I think I ended up paying about $110 from it.
I actually bought it from adventures and home brewing, and that mill. Has served me very well. It has a seven pound hopper on. It allows me to crush my all-grain batches and has it set up for a brew in a bag tile type crush. I actually have my crush very, very fine. Almost. I wouldn’t say it’s flour cause that would be I think too fine, but it is there.
It’s, it’s really, really small. When you look at it in comparison to a standard Homebrew shop crush. I have it. If I were to have taken my grain mill and put it all the way to its smallest setting, I then pulled it back like two notches and then locked it down. So it was a very, very fine crushing in comparison to that type of crush.
And what that did for me, that very first batch that I did at such a fine crush with the Bruna bag method immediately saw a huge bump up into my efficiency. And now I, on average, when I actually get my volumes right and all of my math right on my system, I can generally get that 70 to 75% efficiency almost every time on my batches.
As long as I’m not doing really big beers. So one thing with Bruin, a bag and efficiency is even with a fine grain crush, once you’re getting into beers that are like 10 70 10 80 and you’re looking at very, very thick mashes with lots of grain, you do tend to get. I would say anything over 10 60, I tend to start to see my efficiency, um, on a, on a gradual scale, get lower and lower.
Um, I have other methods to get around that, and that’s a whole different show. But the point is, is that when it comes to crushing grains for this method, it’s really important to have a fine crush. Whereas if I were going to be doing a batch sparge or sparging, the standard size crush is going to work because you are taking extra water after you get your first runnings and you’re running them through the grain bed to actually wash the sugars off and using things like rice holes and the holes of the grain.
So you want to have, try to have the colonels and the holes just be separated so that it will support that grain. And allow you to rinse them well and not get a stuck spurge. Now, let’s talk about the different kinds of mills that are out there, and when you’re out there deciding what is the right meal for you, how you might look at them and assess whether they’re the right fit for you.
I would say there’s three big types of mills when it comes to picking one first. There’s a very small mill out there called a Corona mill. Now, a Corona mill is very different than the type of mills that you would see. If you go to your standard Homebrew shop and see like a two or three roller mill, we’ll get into those as well.
But a Corona mill is a mill that basically, and instead of two rollers, you’re going to have two plates that are really close together with some. Teeth in there and those two plates, basically one plate spins over the other with just enough gap for your grains to fit through and as they fall through it, it’s then cracking open your grains and allowing you to then use it as a for brewing.
The thing is is that Corona mills tend to. Crush really, really fine. For example, their intentions are to make things like corn flour or flowers, and so they’re meant to have a very, very small gap, and so in order to have a, a, a Corona mill that you would use for homebrewing, you’re going to have to modify it.
They are very inexpensive. This is probably the cheapest way you could get into having a bill for your homebrewing setup. You can get. Corona mills for 20 bucks if you find them on the right website. But the problem is, is that you still have to, once you get it, tweak it a bit. So some of the tweaks you’re going to need to do is you want to take the handle off and motorize it so that you can use it with things like a drill.
But the thing is, is that those handles. Unlike a roller mill, are going to have to be modified. So you might have to take off the handle and add a bolt or something to the end of it to allow you to then put a, a drill on the end of it so that you can grab it and actually spin it and do it at a rate that would actually allow you to get through the amount of grain that you’re gonna need to do.
So another thing that you’re going to need to do is that you need to. Get a gap that is a little bit further out and so, and make it more adjustable. And so one of the things that you can do. Is replaced the bolt on the inside. Well, there’s a bolt in there with a cauterized pin, and you’re G you’re in your standard Corona mill, and go in there and adjust the gap and add washers to the bolt so that it actually holds in place and holds at the right gap that you’re looking for.
And it doesn’t wobble around as you’re using it and it’s motorized. So that’s a pretty good. Mod that you need to do that is going to help you be able to get a good consistent crush out of a Corona mill. The other mod that you’re going to probably want to do is they come with really small hoppers, like for example, you might only be able to put a pound or two a grain in the standard hopper that it comes with, and so you’re going to want to tweak it a bit and add some sort of container to the top of it to be able to hold more grain so that you can get it through a couple of things.
With a Krone mill, you’re still going to grant. Grind this a lot slower. It’s going to be a slower process than a roller mill, and it’s going to take you a lot longer to get through. If you had to do 10 or 12 pounds of grain, it’s just going to take longer. But if you’re looking for a cheap way to get into it, there is instructions all over the place online.
I’ll add some to the show notes here for you to get a detailed, but that is one approach that you could take to getting into a mill for yourself, for homebrewing and doing it the inexpensive way. The other way to get into a mill, and this is kind of the middle of the road and, and this starts around the hundred dollar range.
And that is to do a two roller mill. There are lots of different brands, make some models of the two roller mill, but the idea of how a two roller mill functions is that you basically have a base plate and at the bottom and inside the whole of that base plate is two rollers and. The way it works is that you set the gap between the two rollers so that you can set the size of your crush and one roller is, is basically moves, and when you buy one, it comes with a hand crank.
But the cool thing is you just take the hand crank off and throw a drill on it, and it’s immediately motorized. Every two roller mill that I’ve seen. Generally fits on the end of a drill bit. So that shouldn’t be an issue. Once you motorize it, you have one roller that actually is, is automated, and that is the one that moves.
And it basically uses the friction of the grain and the gap to actually roll the other one. And in the process doing so, you then are going to have a crush, uh, very easy to set up. You can go in and you see. The crush of your grain by changing the different size of the gap, and you can kind of pick whatever size of crush that you want, whether you want it to be more closely to an entire whole kernel of grain just released from the husk with a little bit of crunch to it.
Or if you want to get really super fine, almost a flower, you can also do so with a two roller mill. One thing that is a drawback of the two roller mills. Is that out of the box, they tend to have smaller hoppers. They’re not meant they, they have a tough time even going through large batches of grain. So for example, if I had 18 or 20 pounds of grain to crush, could totally do it, just takes a little bit longer and they usually come with like seven to 10 pounds of grain in the hopper.
That’s usually the size that they are there. They run the other type of mill that’s out there is your three ML roller mill. And a three roller mill is set up a bit different. For example, where a two roller mill is a single gap between two rollers on a flat plane, a three molar roller mill. Think of it.
It is in a bit. Of a three D mill as well. Think of it as an inverted pyramid. So the top roller being the main roller that you’re using the power on is actually going to be the, the bottom, the base of the pyramid. The grains would flow down the sides of it, and there would be two rollers down below and in kind of a pyramid shape.
Think of it that way. So you have. Like the two gap and then another gap. The way that the three mill roller mill works though, is that. It tends to be a little more efficient because the three mill roller mill obviously has more surface area to crush and get through. It also tends to be able to get through a lot more grain because you now have two gaps on each side versus the one gap.
And so the idea is that with a three roller mill, you’re now set up to crush even more because you have grain falling on either side of that main roller. So if you’re doing 10 gallon batches and crushing 20 pounds of grain, commonly a three roller mill is definitely the way to go. Then there are different hacks and things that you’re going to be able to do these grain mills so that you can have an easier brew day, and I have to say there’s a ton of hacks out there I’ve seen for grain mills, but I’m going to go over just a couple.
First of all. A lot of your grain mills and it just depends on the model that you buy are going to come attached to some sort of board or not. If they don’t, you’re going to want to put them attached to some sort of board. This is kind of important. The reason is, is that you don’t want to be inhaling grain dust.
It’s actually, if you, if you were doing it a lot, let’s say you’re an employee at a brewery and you’re. Doing your milling grain all day, every day at work. It’s actually very unhealthy for you, but also you just don’t want to be breathing in all of that flour, dust, and particulate as you’re milling your grains.
So it’s going to be a some sort of flat board that is going to cover whatever bucket or container you’re going into. The other thing that I’ve seen people do is actually. Create cabinetry that they use to install their mill on top of. So for example, think like a small cupboard with a hole in the top for your mill to be attached to, to fall into a bucket that is placed within that cabinet.
This is also a really great way to have a clean environment for you to. Bill your grains in, and you’re not getting dust all over your garage or all over your backyard or all over your workspace in your kitchen, wherever you’re using it. So one of my favorite hacks I see out there is just really cool cabinetry for you to place your mill into.
And we’re talking here roller mills, for example, the Krone mill. That style of mill is really attached to some sort of counter, and the way that they’re designed is not really conducive for. Building them into cabinetry, or if you have some sort of design like that, I haven’t seen one and I’d like to see it, so please send it my way.
I would say the most common hack I see on. Mills is people motorized them. And I’ve seen a lot of different ways of people motor rising these mills all the way from very high torque, DIR, direct driven type of motors. So for example, really high torque electric motors directly driven to them. Or I’ve also seen electric motors attached to them via flywheels so that they can adjust down some of the torque.
If you have a mill that can kind of can’t handle that much power. So I’ve seen him. Bunch of different ways of doing that. And the idea here is instead of using a drill or something like that, you are going to think of the drill as being your motor and drills are great motors, but if you want to go for something a little more powerful so you can really chew through some grain, let’s say you’ve got a really beefy.
Like a malt muncher, three roller grain mill, and you want to be able to then really power through a lot of grain. You can get a high torque motor for it, have that actually be installed to that cabinetry that you’ve built, and then it’s just an on and off switch and pour your grain in and it crushes through a lot of gray.
The other hacks that I see out there are crazy stuff I’ve seen people actually build their entire grain mills from scratch. I’ve seen them using things such as scrap metal around their house to actually create the rollers all the way to people making concrete rollers. To then power and make things like two grain mills that way and their own hoppers in all reality.
Just like any other home brewing project out there. When it comes to a grain mill, you can go all the way from the. The cheap pack, which I would call the Corona mill from the beginning to, Hey, I just want to buy one off the shelf that works and actually spend some money and you can spend a hundred dollars get a decent mill that’s going to do the job and all the way up to the people who want to.
Do it themselves all the way from the beginning, and they want to create their own roller mills, create their own hoppers, make it into a woodworking project. I’ve seen really all forms of this. I would say another hack that I’ve seen out there are people that would take a shop vac vacuum and they kind of build it into their stations so that when they’re billing grain and there’s a lot of dust being created, then they also have a vacuum that is sucking up all of that dust that’s in the air, but not sucking up what’s going into the bucket.
So kind of some cool hacks out there, but just to recap. When it comes to mills, there really are a few things out there that you need to know. First of all, you need to know what crush is going to work for you, and that is based on the style of beer that you’re, you’re brewing method really not the style of beer.
So for example, ver brew in a bag versus. Three vessel versus spatch Bart batch sparge are all going to have different crush sizes for the reasons why you would want to crush your grain. The next step is you get to go out and pick the type of mill you want, whether that’s the basic Corona mill that you’re going to hack together to create a inexpensive grain mill for yourself all the way up to if you wanted to purchase a really nice.
Three roller grain mill, but the idea is that there’s. A mill out there for every home brewer and whatever your process is to get you there, it’s going to get you there. So that’s pretty much it. What I will do is I will put some links to some grain mills out there that I, I’ll, I’ll put a link to the grain mill that I have.
I’ll put some grain bills out there that I recommend, and also put a link to the. DIY project that I found online for hacking a Corona mill to get ready for homebrewing. And I think at that point, if you are a homebrewer who is maybe do an extract and thinking about going all grain, or if you’re an all-grain brewer and you’re still using the mill at the shop and you want to actually kind of bring that home and do it yourself, I’ll, I’ll post all of those resources in the show notes so that you can do a deep dive and figure out more.
And thank you very much for this week’s deep dive, and we will talk next time.
I want to thank everybody listening to this week’s show. I really like these deep dive episodes because it allows me to really dive deeply into one single homebrewing subject, and sometimes when I do that, I even learned things myself. That being said, you can always find us on Instagram. Twitter and Facebook, and you could just look for us at homebrewing.
DIY. Also, if you have feedback, send it to the podcast at home brewing, DIY. So that’s it for this week, and we’ll see you next week on harboring DIY. .
